Antique mahogany furniture waxing tips

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The essence of antique mahogany furniture is to use a waxing process without any paint whitening, to maintain the wood of the wood itself and the beautiful wood grain. The waxing of antique mahogany furniture is divided into open waxing and closed waxing. Open waxing is to expose the wood eye (needle eye) and wood grain on the outside. The wood with good material and the high level of craftsmanship are generally open waxing to show the crafts grade. Closed waxing is to fill the pores of the wood eye (needle eye) to enhance the smoothness. Generally, the raw paint is used because the raw paint is environmentally friendly, non-toxic and tasteless. When filling the pores, waxing with beeswax, first bake the wax into the wood with high temperature, then bake it into the wood with an electric heater, and finally smooth it with a soft cotton cloth and cotton yarn, and wipe off the excess wax.

There are five major requirements for waxing antique mahogany furniture:

First of all, waxing is transparent, the wax film is very thin and the surface of the wood is not ground, but the water resistance is good, the wood is not easy to crack, and it has a sealing effect. Therefore, the selection of wood is higher, and the general color requirement is uniform.

Secondly, the waxing of antique mahogany furniture is not as bright as the paint, because the light is determined by the wax, and the product is still polished and polished, and the gloss is still excellent, but the average customer does not pursue this effect.

Again, after careful polishing, the effect is determined by the thickness of the sand and the transparency of the polishing. The sandpaper is processed from 180#->240#->320#->400#->1000# from coarse to fine. Finally, it is polished with a fine cotton ball to form a crystal clear and lustrous effect and a soft touch.

Subsequently, there are two options, open and closed.

Finally, the wood grain is revealed as it is. It should also be noted that the baked wax must be completely penetrated into the wood. The temperature of the heat gun should not be too high during the whole operation. Finished furniture should not be hot, need to be carefully protected.

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